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      With the current and against it - following the Hudson River into the City That Never Sleeps

    Ahead of us, there lies an exciting stretch of "whisperiad" - the legendary Hudson River with New York City lurking at its mouth, also known as The City. After an impressive set of five locks in Waterford, popularly called "The Flight of Five", the Hudson River doesn't show its tremendousness. In the vicinity of Troy, it's merely a small scrawny river, overgrown with wild thicket. Further down, it starts to flow wider and reminds us of our Polish Narew River. We install the mast in one of the riverside yacht clubs and from now on we continue our trip motor sailing.

    The wider the Hudson River flows, the more ships we encounter on our way. They seem to be regular vessels meant for the ocean moving up from New York City. Meant for the ocean means huge blocks made of steel, next to which Whisper is just an autumn leaf (yet green) lost in the river's whirlpools. One of them appears to charge straight at us! Panicked, we steer close to the right riverbank covered with rushes. Such vegetation could suggest shoals, yet the tremendousness of the overall situation (the huge ship aiming downright at us) took advantage of us...Whisper smoothly sinks in the muddy bottom without our noticing it. The propeller of Atomic Four keeps turning on reverse, but is unable to pull the boat out of the shallows against the current. Horrified, we look as the water is being sucked with a horrendous force and its level drops suddenly. Before our very eyes, the boat heels to port. It's the passing ship that somehow caused that unexpected ebb. Few moments later, the water returns in the form of a massive wave, pushing us further down on the shoal. Now we got stuck for good. Meanwhile, Magda receives a message that her friend Aga bravely delivered her first baby, Stasiek. September 13th wasn't unlucky for everyone :)

    Piotrek jumps into the water in order to look around. It turns out that hard sandy bottom is covered by two-foot layer of sludge. No matter how hard we try to move the boat (pushing, turning, heeling, motoring to pull ourselves out of the shallows) fail in the face of the ebb. That's right, the ebb. Almost throughout its whole length, the Hudson River is affected by the ebb of several feet, and its current changes direction twice every 24 hours. We decide to do what sailors used to do in such situation - we wait for the tide. After an hour has passed, we observe with great relief as the current stops to change its direction (a river flowing "against its current"). Another hour passes and, at last, we are free.

    While we get closer to Westpoint, the river reveals to us its legendary beauty. We move swiftly along the feet of hovering postglacial hills, that evoke in our minds vivid memories of Norwegian fiords. We stay in Cold Spring overnight and still before dawn we pass by Westpoint - a fortress and military academy founded by our Polish fellow, Thaddeus Kosciuszko. The City awaits us...

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